
Cacao (Theobroma cacao) is a compact and shade loving tree with ancient origins. From seed to harvest, it teaches patience, attentiveness, and trust in the unseen work beneath the soil.
If you’re curious about growing cacao — whether on a homestead, farm, or food forest — this guide follows the journey from seed to tree, as practiced here on our North Hilo farm.
Inside the Pod
Each cacao pod holds between 30 and 60 seeds, depending on the variety. The beans come in different shapes and shades of purple to white — a genetic mosaic that hints at the flavor and character to come.

Germination
Seeds are planted in 14-inch tall grow tubes, filled with loose, well-drained soil. They’re kept shaded and moist — cacao doesn’t like to dry out, and it doesn’t like direct sun either.
After one to two weeks, a taproot reaches down. Then, slowly, the first leaves appear. No rush — cacao grows in its own time.

In the Nursery
For the next few months, seedlings live in a shaded nursery, protected from wind, sun, and pests. At two months, they’re small and fragile.
By six months, a healthy tree will have a stem as thick as a pencil — strong enough for transplanting, or grafting if you’re looking for specific varietal traits.

Planting in the Ground
Seedlings are planted into deep holes amended with compost and organic matter. The soil should hold water, but drain well. After transplanting, regular watering helps the roots take hold.
Spacing:
-
6 ft apart for dense planting
-
13 ft apart if interplanting with bananas, turmeric, or other crops
Depending on layout, 400–1,000 cacao trees can fit per acre.

Protection for Young Trees
Young cacao needs shelter — not just from wind and sun, but from hungry beetles and competitive weeds.
We build simple protective cages using wire and 30% shade cloth, secured with long weed mat staples. These protect against:
-
Harsh sun and wind
-
Weeds (when paired with a thick mulch ring)
-
Chinese rose beetles, which can skeletonize leaves overnight
In cooler, shaded, wind-protected areas, cages may not be necessary — but in our experience, they make the difference between thriving and failing.

Common Pests
-
Chinese rose beetle (Adoretus sinicus): Clumsy fliers that chew through tender leaves. The cage stops them cold.
-
Ants farming aphids: If you see curled or sticky new leaves, rinse with a hose or reduce ant colonies. Aphids alone don’t kill cacao, but they slow it down.
Once the tree matures, a few bug bites are no big deal.


The Jorquette

Around year three, cacao forms a jorquette — a natural Y where the trunk splits into major branches. This shape matters. It sets the tree’s architecture and determines how it will bear fruit. Prune carefully, and let it grow balanced.

Between young cacao trees, we grow food crops like:
-
White pineapple
-
Kalo (taro)
-
ʻOlena (turmeric)
-
Plantains
These fill the space while the cacao canopy is still developing, and they feed both the soil and the farmer.


Flowering & Fruiting
Cacao trees flower around year four.
The blossoms are small and pinkish-white, emerging directly from the trunk — a trait called cauliflory.
Most flowers don’t become fruit. They rely on tiny native midges for pollination, and conditions have to be just right. But eventually, the first pods begin to form.


Pod Maturity & Ripeness
Cacao pods take 5–6 months to ripen. Some are smooth, some ribbed or bumpy. They range in color — from green to yellow, red to orange, sometimes even purple.


To test for ripeness:
-
Look for a color shift
-
Scratch the pod skin lightly: if it’s still green beneath, wait a little longer
Harvesting too early halts flavor development. Too late, and the beans begin to sprout inside the pod. Timing matters.

Part of the HAA Knowledge Series — hands-on learning in regenerative tropical agriculture, rooted in Hawaiʻi.
A BIG MAHALO to Kirsten & Nicolás at *faircompanies for featuring us on YouTube!
Check out their new book “Life-Changing Homes – Eco-Friendly Designs That Promote Well-Being.“

